The Again Street to Mostar: Off the Crushed Path in Bosnia-Herzegovina

As we have needed to postpone our travels due to the pandemic, I imagine a weekly dose of journey dreaming may be good medication. This is a reminder of the enjoyable that awaits us in Europe on the different finish of this disaster.

In search of a change of tempo from Croatia’s touristic Dalmatian Coast, I am driving east from Dubrovnik to the town of Mostar, in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Nearly everybody making this journey takes the scenic coastal route. However with a spirit of journey, I take the again highway as an alternative: inland first, then looping north by means of the Serbian a part of Herzegovina.

Bosnia-Herzegovina’s three foremost ethnic teams — Serbs, Croats, and Bosniaks — are descended from the identical ancestors and communicate carefully associated languages. The important thing distinction is that they follow totally different religions: Orthodox Christianity (Serbs), Roman Catholicism (Croats), and Islam (Bosniaks). For probably the most half, there is not any approach {that a} informal customer may decide the faith or loyalties of the folks simply by them. Finding out the advanced demographics of the previous Yugoslavia, I acquire a grudging respect for the communist-era dictator Tito — the one man who was in a position to maintain this “union of the South Slavs” collectively peacefully.

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Bosnia-Herzegovina is one nation, traditionally divided into two areas: Bosnia and Herzegovina. However the 1995 Dayton Peace Accords gerrymandered the nation alongside sectarian strains, giving a level of autonomy to the world the place Orthodox Serbs predominate. This “Republika Srpska” rings the core of Bosnia on three sides. When requested for driving suggestions, Croats — who, due to ongoing tensions with the Serbs, keep away from this territory — insist that the highway I need to take by means of their nation would not even exist. From the primary Croatian coastal highway simply south of Dubrovnik, directional indicators would ship me to a tiny Croatian border city — however ignore the massive Serbian metropolis of Trebinje simply past.

And but, Trebinje greater than exists…it’s bustling and affluent. As I enter the town, police with ping-pong-paddle cease indicators pull me over. I be taught that you could drive together with your headlights on in any respect hours. My “dumb vacationer” routine will get me off the hook. Parking the automobile, I head to an out of doors market to get money at an ATM to purchase some produce.

Bosnia-Herzegovina’s cash is known as the “convertible mark.” Some payments have Cyrillic lettering and Serbian historic figures, whereas others use the English alphabet and present Muslims or Croats. Like every thing else in Bosnia-Herzegovina, the forex is a cautious balancing act.

Later, after a two-hour drive on abandoned roads by means of a rugged panorama, I arrive on the humble crossroads village of Nevesinje. Cities on this area all have a “café row,” and Nevesinje is not any exception. It is lunchtime, however as I stroll by means of city, I do not see a soul with any meals on their plate — simply drinks. Apparently, locals eat economically at residence, then get pleasure from an reasonably priced espresso or drink at a café.

A cluttered little grocery is my resolution for a fast meal. The outdated man behind the counter appears pleased to make me a sandwich. Salami, which appears to be like like Spam, is the one choice. I take my sandwich to an adjoining café and pay the equal of a US quarter for a cup of robust Turkish (or “Bosnian”) espresso, with extremely caffeinated mud on the backside. Then I munch, drink, and watch the road scene. It is like seeing a play.

Large males drive by in little beater automobiles. Excessive-school children crowd across the window of the pictures store, which has simply posted their class commencement photographs. The flirtatious ladies and boys on this cruising drag show you do not want cash to have model. Via a store window, I see a younger couple selecting out a easy engagement ring. One second I believe that Nevesinje could be very totally different from my hometown…however the subsequent, it appears simply the identical.

Trying on the curiously overgrown ruined constructing throughout the road, I discover its bricked-up, pointed Islamic arches and understand it was as soon as a mosque. Its yard is a no-man’s-land of bombed-out concrete and glass, the place a single, turban-topped tombstone nonetheless manages to face. The prayer area of interest inside, the place nobody prays anymore, faces east…to a different empty restaurant.

After an hour’s drive over a twisty mountain highway, I go away the Republika Srpska and arrive on the metropolis of Mostar. Pulling into city, I am exhausted but exhilarated with the expertise I gained by taking the highway a lot much less traveled.

This text was tailored from Rick’s new guide, For the Love of Europe.

Rick Steves ( writes European guidebooks, hosts journey exhibits on public TV and radio, and organizes European excursions. You possibly can e-mail Rick at [email protected] and observe his weblog on Fb.

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